• Roots should be moist & fibrous.
• Deciduous seedlings should have roots about equal to stem length.

• Soil plug should be moist and firm.
• Avoid tall, spindly tops. Well-developed roots are more important.

• Root ball should be firm to the touch, especially near the trunk.
• Root ball should be adequate for the tree’s size.

• Pot should not contain large, circling roots.
• Pruned roots cut cleanly, none wider than a finger.
• Soil & roots joined tightly.

• The most common mistake when planting a tree is a digging hole, which is both too deep and too narrow. Too deep and the roots do not have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth. Too narrow and the root structure can not expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree.
• As a general rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown. The width of the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself.
• When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the centre bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone.

Planting bare-rooted trees is a little different as there is no soil surrounding the roots. Most importantly, the time between purchase and planting is a more critical issue. Plant as soon as possible. When purchasing bare-rooted trees, inspect the roots to ensure that they are moist and have numerous lengths of fine root hairs (healthy). Care should be taken to ensure that the roots are kept moist in the period between purchase and planting. Prune broken or damaged roots but save as much of the root structure as you can.

To plant, first build a cone of earth in the centre of the hole around which to splay the roots. Make sure that when properly seated on this cone the tree is planted so that the ‘trunk flare’ is clearly visible and the ‘crown’, where the roots and top meet, is about two inches above the soil level. This is to allow for natural settling.

Container trees (though subject to greater heat and drying conditions than B and B) can also be stored for a brief period of time after purchase as long as the soil in the container is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady spot. The procedure for planting container trees is similar to that for B & B trees. In the case of metal or plastic containers, remove the container completely. In the case of fibre containers, tear the sides away.

Once carefully removed from the container, check the roots. If they are tightly compressed or ‘potbound’, use your fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to carefully tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting. In the case of extremely woody compacted roots, it may be necessary to use a spade to open up the bottom half of the root system. The root system is then pulled apart or ‘butterflied’ prior to planting. Loosening the root structure in this way is extremely important in the case of container plants. Failure to do so may result in the roots ‘girdling’ and killing the tree. At the very least, the roots will have difficulty expanding beyond the dimensions of the original container. To further assist this, lightly break up even the soil outside the planting zone. This allows roots that quickly move out of the planting zone to be more resilient as they anchor into existing surrounding soil conditions.

Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of the container. Again, remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by tramping it with your feet. Compress gently using your hands instead.

* Mulch insulates the soil helping to provide a buffer from heat and cold temperatures.
* Mulch retains water helping to keep the roots moist.
* Mulch keeps weeds out to help prevent root competition.
* Mulch prevents soil compaction.
* Mulch reduces lawn mower damage.

Steps to Adding Mulch Around Your Tree

1. Add mulch to the base of your tree by removing any grass within a 3 to 10 foot area depending on the size of your tree.
2. Pour natural mulch such as wood chips or bark pieces 2 to 4 inches deep within the circle.
3. Keep the mulch from touching the trunk of the tree.